Rue Jourdan 19
What’s good? Opened in 1979 by Leo and Aldo Spagnuolo, Al Piccolo Mondo offers a
polished, nostalgic, yet lively Italian dining experience in the heart of
Brussels.
Upon stepping inside, the staff — led by Leo’s son, Olivier Spagnuolo, who now
runs the restaurant with his brother, Valerio — greets you with warmth and
charm.
The food is rich in flavor, with portions so generous that even the starters
could pass for mains. The Aubergine alla Parmigiana, drenched in cheese, melts
in your mouth, while the ossobucco and its tagliatelle instantly give you the
feeling of being in the south of Italy during a mild winter.
What’s not? Be ready to loosen your purse strings — this isn’t a budget-friendly
venue. But a great spot for special occasions.
Vibe: With velvet banquettes, warm wood tones, Venetian-style wall art and cozy
alcoves, Al Piccolo Mondo feels like “a warm hug” the moment you enter. It’s
romantic, old-school and effortlessly elegant. Bonus points for the open kitchen
corner to your right as you enter, where a pizza oven crackles and pasta-making
magic unfolds before your eyes.
Who’s picking up the check? There’s a lunch deal (Monday to Saturday) that
includes a starter and main course for €28. Otherwise, starters range from
around €15 to €25, while pasta and pizza cost € 20 or more. Most fish and meat
dishes cost between €30 and €44.
Spotted: The walls are lined with photos of famous (and less-famous) guests,
from politicians to actors and athletes. The most famous? Former U.S. President
Bill Clinton, Olivier Spagnuolo said. For the overflow of celebrity photos,
check out their Instagram.
Insider tip: You can cap your evening with a romantic ride on the nearby Ferris
wheel and take in sweeping views of Brussels.
Fun fact: Olivier Spagnuolo was running the restaurant floor himself, chatting
with clients and taking orders. It gives the place a personal, family-run feel.
How to get there: It’s about a 5-minute walk from the Louise metro station to
the bustling Rue Jourdan, which is packed with restaurants and bars.
Review published on September, 11 2025. Illustration by Natália
Delgado/POLITICO
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Tag - Food review
Place du Châtelain 47
What’s good? Gratin’s terrace, on the recently refurbished Place du Châtelain,
is always busy and buzzing with a trendy-looking crowd. The handsome exterior is
suggestive of a relaxed, Parisian bistro, and once inside, we enjoyed decent
glasses of orange wine. Unfortunately, that’s about as far as the positives
went.
What’s not? Trying to get a seat. Our first attempt was aborted after waiting
for 10 minutes, only for a waitress to seat other guests who arrived well after
us. On our second visit, we managed, after a short wait, to find seats at the
bar, then later moved to a table. A casual seating policy works in some places,
but probably not in an establishment where a small plate of salmon gravlax costs
€17.
Our food, which took a long time, was not good. We opted for aubergine roti
(which turned out to be half a limp aubergine covered in multicolored sauces),
the aforementioned salmon gravlax (which, though expensive, was reasonably
tasty), a “carpaccio” of under-seasoned and watery tomatoes with burrata, and
the pièce de résistance, a potato gratin with courgette that was undercooked —
to the point of being difficult to eat — and completely bland.
Vibe: A young crowd. The interior design was along mid-century modern lines,
with lots of dark greens and browns.
Who’s picking up the check? We paid €71 for four small sharing dishes that left
us both hungry, and a glass of wine each, plus €6.50 for two ice creams
afterward from the night shop next door. We’d learned enough from the mains to
skip dessert.
Spotted: A sticker in the window announcing Gratin as part of the Gault&Millau
2025 “Hip” guide — which may provide an important lesson on the value of
restaurant guides. Also, a tiny, fluffy, well-behaved Pomeranian on the sofa
next to us.
Insider tip: If you insist on giving it a go, arrive early. It’s always busy, it
doesn’t take reservations for groups of fewer than six people, and you have to
get your elbows out to get seats, particularly outside.
Fun fact: One of the waitresses described the seating policy for the terrace
outside as “Hunger Games.” Take from that what you will.
How to get there: Walk five minutes into the heart of Châtelain from the Bailli
tram stop on Avenue Louise.
— SAM CLARK
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Rue Vanderkindere 356, 1180, Uccle
What’s good? The confit eggplant was a serious highlight. Sitting in a pool of
fragrant, bright red tomato sauce with a generous dollop of feta mousse, you’ll
want to have extra bread on hand to soak up all the flavor. The comté and potato
flatbread with béchamel sauce, topped with onions, was deliciously cozy and
creamy, while not too heavy.
What’s not? The Belgian endive salad with radicchio and daikon had the potential
to be bright and fresh, but instead was bitter and lacking in vinaigrette.
Vibe: The interior is relaxed and sophisticated — and bathed in deeply stained
wood. The sun-soaked terrace that wrapped around the entire restaurant was
filled to the brim with well-dressed people of all ages. And the jazzy, funky
sounds emanating from the built-in record mixing table at the back of the
restaurant made everything taste a bit sweeter.
Who’s picking up the check? At about €30 per person (including a glass of wine),
you’re set for the perfect, light summertime dinner. The plates and flatbreads
run around €11 to €15, so get two of each to share.
Spotted: About 10 different small dogs — from dachshunds to miniature poodles to
terriers — enjoying the evening at the feet of their chic owners.
Insider tip: Use the ridiculously giant scissors in the cutlery jar on the table
to slice up your flatbread, or risk sawing away at the tough crust with your
butter knife for a few frustrating minutes.
Fun fact: According to our server, the DJ in charge of Boaboa’s music orders 30
to 50 records per week to switch up the selection.
How to get there: Take Bus 60 in the Uccle Calevoet direction to the stop
Clinique Edith Cavell. Boaboa is a minute away on foot.
— LIV MARTIN
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Vlaamseseteenweg 162, 1000, Brussels
What’s good? Don’t be put off by the simple lettuce leaf seasoned with linseed
oil you’ll be offered as a starter. The hip restaurant’s trendy plate-sharing
concept takes you on a journey through fresh ingredients, cooked and presented
in simple, deconstructed ways — what chefs Katrien, Dom and Nico describe as
brutalist gastronomy.
If you like tasting many flavors in one evening, combine at least three dishes
per person from the menu. It’s difficult to give recommendations, as the
restaurant changes dishes every two to three weeks to reflect ingredient
availability and seasonality — but you will always find the signature beet
chutney, a favorite among regulars.
What’s not: If you are a big eater, this restaurant is a no-go, as the small
portions won’t satisfy you. Kline also isn’t ideal for those who prefer variety,
with its limited menu of five starters, two meat dishes, two fish options and
three desserts.
Vibe: Brutalist gastronomy brings brutalist architecture. Feel inspired by the
bare concrete walls and focus your senses in the dish in front of you while you
smell the cooking taking place in the adjacent fully open kitchen.
Who’s picking up the check: Unless you have an EU civil servant’s salary, you
might want to stay away: The most brutal aspect is the price. Don’t expect to
pay less than €100 for a two-person dinner — and up to €180 if you order dessert
and a bottle of wine. The most eye-watering moment? Paying €6 per person for …
tap water.
Spotted: Expect to find hordes of Flemish hipsters.
Fun fact: The restaurant is named after painter Franz Kline, one of the leading
members of the abstract expressionist movement in the U.S. during the 1940s and
1950s. His simplistic paintings with thick, rough black strokes helped shape the
brutalist concept behind the restaurant.
Insider tip: In true European fashion, service runs in two shifts, Nordic and
Southern: from 6 p.m. to 8:15 p.m.; and from 8:45 p.m. to 11 p.m.
How to get there: Kline is located few blocks away from Place Sainte-Catherine
in the center of Brussels, easily connected via metro to the EU institutions.
Review published on June, 26 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
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Chaussée de Waterloo 552
What’s good? Traditional Chinese dishes like kung pao chicken, dandan
noodles and Beijing duck will lure any Asian cuisine fans. But the Sichuan spice
— a hot pepper that numbs the mouth — will keep you there and make you return.
The cold spinach starter has less vinegar than its original, but the sesame
seeds and vermicelli elevate the flavor. Don’t miss the deep-fried chicken
cooked in Sichuan peppers. The green beans are less spicy than the ones found in
China, but the slight sweetness counteracts the spicy kick from the chicken.
What’s not? It’s a popular spot, so make a reservation in advance. They also
didn’t have the chuanr — Chinese barbeque sticks — advertised at the end of the
menu.
Vibe: Tucked in one of Brussels’ wealthiest neighborhoods, the restaurant has
upscale decor and plating. The cold spinach appetizer came in a gorgeous bowl
that resembled a flower. When it’s warm, there’s outside seating, but bring
layers for inside, as the door is often left open.
Who’s picking up the check? Main dishes will set you back €18 to €20, while
smaller plates to start are around €10. It’s a good spot for a date or to
impress visitors. A bonus is a Tsingtao — a mainstay Chinese lager — goes for
just €5.
Spotted: It’s a well-known eatery among Brussels’ prominent China watchers,
including, we hear, POLITICO’s own Regional Director Jamil Anderlini.
Insider tip: Forget your own main — order dishes for the table and share so you
can try all the delicious offerings on the menu.
Fun fact: Your author spent five years living in Beijing and can attest that the
dishes match those found on the Chinese mainland, albeit with a slightly
different flavor profile. The restaurant also has a Bib Gourmand rating from the
Michelin Guide.
How to get there: Step off the tram or bus at Abbaye de la Cambre and walk ten
minutes down Rue d’le Abbaye.
Review published on June, 19 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
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Chaussée de Boondael 272, 1050 Ixelles
What’s good? If you’re wandering around the ULB university campus, you’d be
forgiven for missing Hui Mian, an unassuming spot that’s one of a smattering of
Asian eateries in the area. If the modest decor doesn’t catch your attention,
the sight of the chef in the window stretching and spinning long strands of
fresh noodles before dumping them into a boiling vat of water just might.
The bowls of fresh hand-pulled noodles come in a broth or with a variety of
saucy toppings. We tried the house favorite, spicy mian, chewy noodles with beef
mince, a spicy sauce and coriander. The cold garlic noodles topped with thin
slices of beef were equally flavorful and lived up to their name (a pack of gum
for after the meal is advised!). And while the menu may look meat-heavy upon
first glance, both of these dishes — as well as some others — can be made with a
veggie substitute.
The highlight of the restaurant, though, is the traditional huimian noodles that
the restaurant is named after, fresh noodles in a rich and comforting broth with
slices of beef or lamb, vermicelli and tofu skin.
What’s not? The restaurant doesn’t have any outdoor seating and on a hot
summer’s day, sitting next to the steamy vat of boiling noodles becomes
(unsurprisingly) very warm.
Vibe: The decor is simple with odes to huimian noodles on the wall — think
casual lunch joint for students or a fast, go-to spot for locals picking up some
food after a long day at work.
Who’s picking up the check? A bowl costs around €14.50, a decently priced dinner
but perhaps a slightly pricey lunch. The rich, authentic flavors and the
noodle-pulling show do justify the cost, though.
Insider tip: If you haven’t worked it out yet, the mysterious “mian” that pops
up across the menu simply means “noodles” in Mandarin.
Fun fact: Hui Mian is named after the traditional noodle soup from Henan
province in China where the owner/noodle-maker in the window hails from. It’s
also the home of the Shaolin temple where the eponymous kung fu martial art
style originates — we’re more interested in noodle eating, though.
How to get there: Take bus 71 to Buyl from Flagey or tram 7 or 25 to Roffiaen
from Montgomery.
Review published on June, 12 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
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Rue St.Bernard 1, 1060 Saint-Gilles
What’s good? The seasonal menu is heavy on veg, and that’s nice when you’re
dining with a vegetarian, like I was. The spelt was standout: perfectly cooked,
taut chewiness married to creamy brocoletti. The waitress, who was very
attentive without being overbearing, said it is usually served with cime di
rapa but that they’d gone out of season. It still works.
What’s not? I’m all for no-frills dining, but given the price point (more on
this below) you expect a bit more. Most of the dishes were, while not quite
bland, lacking a certain oomph. The burrata was run of the mill, and not saved
by the pickled red onion garnish. The carrot tart was nicely roasted but the
cheese base didn’t cut through.
Vibe: My dining companion described it as “rustic modernism” and that’s apt.
Spacious, ceiling in béton brut, and adorned with potted plants rather than
flowers. The chairs are recycled office design pieces in a fun fabric. It works,
but it’s a touch cold.
Who’s picking up the check? It’s not cheap. The waitress recommended getting at
least five dishes for two people, and the broccoli was €16. We ended up paying
close to €65 a head, which included two glasses of wine each but no desserts.
Spotted: Almost no one. We went on a Wednesday and stayed for a few hours, and
the restaurant hardly filled up. Tero used to be a bustling spot — maybe it’s
going out of fashion. Or it was simply a quiet day.
Insider tip: The Tero brand, which has venues around Belgium and in Luxembourg,
organizes team building activities. One for your consultants and other corporate
types.
How to get there: The location is super convenient. It’s on a quiet corner just
off of Louise, easily reachable on the metro 2 and 6, and trams 92 and 97.
Review published on June, 5 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
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Rue Stevin 132, 1000
What’s good? You would be forgiven for thinking Finnish and Italian cuisine
don’t go together, but Atrio is here to prove you wrong. The reindeer carbonara
was to die for — smoky, salty and luxuriously creamy, with spaghetti cooked
perfectly al dente. So was the gin and tonic, which in true Finnish fashion came
with a sprig of rosemary and tart lingonberries. And we devoured the wild
blueberry pie, which was touted as grandma’s secret, Finnish recipe. If that’s
true, granny deserves a Michelin star.
What’s not? The restaurant sits in the shadow of the towering Berlaymont
building, so if you’re a weary Eurocrat hoping to put work out of your mind
after a long day of meetings and briefings, you might want to dine at a less
centrally located spot.
Vibe: The décor is somewhat minimalist (Nordic, duh), but cool and refined, with
soft jazz mingling with the sounds of happy Finnish chatter. A deer print on the
wall eyed us balefully as we devoured his buddy. There’s a terrace to enjoy on
sunnier days.
Who’s picking up the check? At around €24 for a pasta main, the prices were
assuredly more northern European than southern.
Spotted: Presidents, prime ministers and other European political luminaries
have all feasted at Atrio, the manager told us (though he couldn’t possibly name
any, of course). We spotted the EU’s top diplomat Kaja Kallas with a couple of
bodyguards at another table, and there’s a hot-smoked salmon sandwich on the
menu named after former Finnish PM Jyrki Katainen.
Fun fact: Atrio was started by three friends: an Italian chef and two Finns.
That’s where the name comes from.
Insider tip: If you hang around and chat with the very pleasant staff, you might
be lucky enough to score a digestif on the house — Jaloviina, a Finnish cut
brandy — and a Finnish canned cocktail called a Lonkero, first concocted for the
1952 Olympics in Helsinki and which my dinner companion/emotional-support Finn
assured me is very popular back home.
How to get there: Atrio is smack in the heart of the European Quarter, a short
stroll from Schuman metro station. Just follow the scent of reindeer meat.
Review published on May, 28 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
Rue Américaine 85, 1050 Ixelles
What’s good? If authentic Mexican fare reminiscent of the streets of Mexico
City’s Roma Norte is what you’re after, Verigoud won’t be for you. With
Japanese-inspired dishes like grilled octopus with a spicy peanut chili crisp,
there’s a heavy Asian and European influence. Regardless, it works — crispy
tempura prawns arrive on soft corn tortillas; hot, crunchy and flavorful. The
ceviche is bright and acidic, with a herby oil adding to rather than distracting
from the freshness. And quick-arriving creative cocktails like the spicy
margarita or the Mezcal sour pack a punch.
What’s not? With a focus on small plates and a tiny open-galley kitchen, the
food isn’t always fast. And, on a sunny day when there are a dozen tables
outside as well, service can grind to a halt.
Vibe: Verigoud’s intimate, stylish interior — including a communal table for
late arrivals and larger parties — as well as tables spilling out into the
street under the cover of parasols, help it hold its own against upmarket
neighbors like seafood bistro Malmö across the road. It’s also dog-friendly —
provided your dog is friendly enough to deal with the constant procession of
tiny pedigree pooches guaranteed to be walking by.
Who’s picking up the check? Small plates range from around €10 for guacamole and
tortilla chips, to up to €20 for a pair of tacos and some of the heartier main
dishes. Sharing is obligatory, as it should be, and with drinks, expect to spend
up to €50 per person.
Spotted: Sitting out the front of the restaurant in Châtelain, half a dozen
Commission staffers, spokespeople and even one top POLITICO trade reporter
wandered past.
Insider tip: Book a day or so in advance. Being stuck on the end of the communal
table next to a large group wouldn’t be much fun, and this place fills up
quickly through the weekend.
Fun fact: The area might now be home to a spattering of Brussels’ fanciest
restaurants, boutique shops and even a matcha green tea emporium; but until the
EU circus arrived in full force, it was known for car dealerships and furniture
warehouses.
How to get there: Take the 60 bus from the European quarter straight to Place du
Châtelain.
Review published on May, 22 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
Rue de la Loi 200, 1049
What’s good? If you’re one of the thousands of hungry eurocrats buzzing around
the Berlaymont building, the headquarters of the European Commission, you know
the real center of power isn’t Ursula von der Leyen’s 13th floor office, it’s
the canteen. With its ever-changing menu, gleaming glass cabinets full of
desserts and well-stocked salad bar, it’s where all the most important and
gossipiest conversations happen.
What’s not? The vegetarian menu was neither sustainable nor competitive. The
dish of the day that POLITICO visited consisted of a grayish eggplant
parmigiana, a heaping of spaghetti with a careless splattering of tomato sauce
and a mysterious, gristly, soy-based mush. My Finnish companion assured me that
the offering is normally far more appetizing.
Vibe: Lining up to grab a tray (and again after my meal to put the tray on a
conveyor belt), this POLITICO reporter felt vaguely like livestock being ushered
through a feedlot. The ambiance did not improve when an ear-splitting alarm
suddenly screamed through the room; potentially a regular occurrence, as most
forks barely paused on their way to mouths.
Who’s picking up the check? For around €9, I scored a sizeable vegetarian main
and a dessert, so the prices are well within the budget of the average, barely
taxed Commission worker, and even within the budget of the outrageously taxed
POLITICO reporter. The grill was offering chicken with veggies and fries for a
few euros extra.
Spotted: Preparedness Commissioner Hadja Lahbib was glimpsed striding through
the Berlaymont’s lobby, as was Katharina von Schnurbein, the Commission’s
coordinator on combating antisemitism. The canteen was a sea of Commission
staffers from various Cabinets and units; a Brussels bubble nerd’s dream.
Fun fact: Among the EU institutions, the Commission’s canteen is generally
regarded as top tier, along with the Council’s (which POLITICO has also
reviewed, naturally). We hear there’s fierce competition between the two.
Insider tip: You’ll need an institution or visitor badge to get into the
Berlaymont building. Sorry, no plebs allowed.
How to get there: The Schuman metro stop deposits you literally steps from the
Berlaymont. Walk through the revolving doors and it’s basically a straight shot
to the canteen.
Review published on May, 15 2025. Illustration by Dato Parulava/POLITICO