Tag - Food review

Restaurant review: Al Piccolo Mondo
Rue Jourdan 19 What’s good? Opened in 1979 by Leo and Aldo Spagnuolo, Al Piccolo Mondo offers a polished, nostalgic, yet lively Italian dining experience in the heart of Brussels. Upon stepping inside, the staff — led by Leo’s son, Olivier Spagnuolo, who now runs the restaurant with his brother, Valerio — greets you with warmth and charm. The food is rich in flavor, with portions so generous that even the starters could pass for mains. The Aubergine alla Parmigiana, drenched in cheese, melts in your mouth, while the ossobucco and its tagliatelle instantly give you the feeling of being in the south of Italy during a mild winter.  What’s not? Be ready to loosen your purse strings — this isn’t a budget-friendly venue. But a great spot for special occasions. Vibe: With velvet banquettes, warm wood tones, Venetian-style wall art and cozy alcoves, Al Piccolo Mondo feels like “a warm hug” the moment you enter. It’s romantic, old-school and effortlessly elegant. Bonus points for the open kitchen corner to your right as you enter, where a pizza oven crackles and pasta-making magic unfolds before your eyes. Who’s picking up the check? There’s a lunch deal (Monday to Saturday) that includes a starter and main course for €28. Otherwise, starters range from around €15 to €25, while pasta and pizza cost € 20 or more. Most fish and meat dishes cost between €30 and €44.  Spotted: The walls are lined with photos of famous (and less-famous) guests, from politicians to actors and athletes. The most famous? Former U.S. President Bill Clinton, Olivier Spagnuolo said. For the overflow of celebrity photos, check out their Instagram. Insider tip: You can cap your evening with a romantic ride on the nearby Ferris wheel and take in sweeping views of Brussels. Fun fact: Olivier Spagnuolo was running the restaurant floor himself, chatting with clients and taking orders. It gives the place a personal, family-run feel. How to get there: It’s about a 5-minute walk from the Louise metro station to the bustling Rue Jourdan, which is packed with restaurants and bars. Review published on  September, 11 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Gratin
Place du Châtelain 47 What’s good? Gratin’s terrace, on the recently refurbished Place du Châtelain, is always busy and buzzing with a trendy-looking crowd. The handsome exterior is suggestive of a relaxed, Parisian bistro, and once inside, we enjoyed decent glasses of orange wine. Unfortunately, that’s about as far as the positives went. What’s not? Trying to get a seat. Our first attempt was aborted after waiting for 10 minutes, only for a waitress to seat other guests who arrived well after us. On our second visit, we managed, after a short wait, to find seats at the bar, then later moved to a table. A casual seating policy works in some places, but probably not in an establishment where a small plate of salmon gravlax costs €17.  Our food, which took a long time, was not good. We opted for aubergine roti (which turned out to be half a limp aubergine covered in multicolored sauces), the aforementioned salmon gravlax (which, though expensive, was reasonably tasty), a “carpaccio” of under-seasoned and watery tomatoes with burrata, and the pièce de résistance, a potato gratin with courgette that was undercooked — to the point of being difficult to eat — and completely bland.  Vibe: A young crowd. The interior design was along mid-century modern lines, with lots of dark greens and browns. Who’s picking up the check? We paid €71 for four small sharing dishes that left us both hungry, and a glass of wine each, plus €6.50 for two ice creams afterward from the night shop next door. We’d learned enough from the mains to skip dessert.  Spotted: A sticker in the window announcing Gratin as part of the Gault&Millau 2025 “Hip” guide — which may provide an important lesson on the value of restaurant guides. Also, a tiny, fluffy, well-behaved Pomeranian on the sofa next to us.  Insider tip: If you insist on giving it a go, arrive early. It’s always busy, it doesn’t take reservations for groups of fewer than six people, and you have to get your elbows out to get seats, particularly outside. Fun fact: One of the waitresses described the seating policy for the terrace outside as “Hunger Games.” Take from that what you will.  How to get there: Walk five minutes into the heart of Châtelain from the Bailli tram stop on Avenue Louise.  — SAM CLARK CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Boaboa Records Café
Rue Vanderkindere 356, 1180, Uccle What’s good? The confit eggplant was a serious highlight. Sitting in a pool of fragrant, bright red tomato sauce with a generous dollop of feta mousse, you’ll want to have extra bread on hand to soak up all the flavor. The comté and potato flatbread with béchamel sauce, topped with onions, was deliciously cozy and creamy, while not too heavy. What’s not? The Belgian endive salad with radicchio and daikon had the potential to be bright and fresh, but instead was bitter and lacking in vinaigrette. Vibe: The interior is relaxed and sophisticated — and bathed in deeply stained wood. The sun-soaked terrace that wrapped around the entire restaurant was filled to the brim with well-dressed people of all ages. And the jazzy, funky sounds emanating from the built-in record mixing table at the back of the restaurant made everything taste a bit sweeter. Who’s picking up the check? At about €30 per person (including a glass of wine), you’re set for the perfect, light summertime dinner. The plates and flatbreads run around €11 to €15, so get two of each to share. Spotted: About 10 different small dogs — from dachshunds to miniature poodles to terriers — enjoying the evening at the feet of their chic owners. Insider tip: Use the ridiculously giant scissors in the cutlery jar on the table to slice up your flatbread, or risk sawing away at the tough crust with your butter knife for a few frustrating minutes. Fun fact: According to our server, the DJ in charge of Boaboa’s music orders 30 to 50 records per week to switch up the selection. How to get there: Take Bus 60 in the Uccle Calevoet direction to the stop Clinique Edith Cavell. Boaboa is a minute away on foot. — LIV MARTIN CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Kline
Vlaamseseteenweg 162, 1000, Brussels What’s good? Don’t be put off by the simple lettuce leaf seasoned with linseed oil you’ll be offered as a starter. The hip restaurant’s trendy plate-sharing concept takes you on a journey through fresh ingredients, cooked and presented in simple, deconstructed ways — what chefs Katrien, Dom and Nico describe as brutalist gastronomy. If you like tasting many flavors in one evening, combine at least three dishes per person from the menu. It’s difficult to give recommendations, as the restaurant changes dishes every two to three weeks to reflect ingredient availability and seasonality — but you will always find the signature beet chutney, a favorite among regulars. What’s not: If you are a big eater, this restaurant is a no-go, as the small portions won’t satisfy you. Kline also isn’t ideal for those who prefer variety, with its limited menu of five starters, two meat dishes, two fish options and three desserts. Vibe: Brutalist gastronomy brings brutalist architecture. Feel inspired by the bare concrete walls and focus your senses in the dish in front of you while you smell the cooking taking place in the adjacent fully open kitchen. Who’s picking up the check: Unless you have an EU civil servant’s salary, you might want to stay away: The most brutal aspect is the price. Don’t expect to pay less than €100 for a two-person dinner — and up to €180 if you order dessert and a bottle of wine. The most eye-watering moment? Paying €6 per person for … tap water. Spotted: Expect to find hordes of Flemish hipsters. Fun fact: The restaurant is named after painter Franz Kline, one of the leading members of the abstract expressionist movement in the U.S. during the 1940s and 1950s. His simplistic paintings with thick, rough black strokes helped shape the brutalist concept behind the restaurant.   Insider tip: In true European fashion, service runs in two shifts, Nordic and Southern: from 6 p.m. to 8:15 p.m.; and from 8:45 p.m. to 11 p.m. How to get there: Kline is located few blocks away from Place Sainte-Catherine in the center of Brussels, easily connected via metro to the EU institutions. Review published on  June, 26 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Car Bon
Chaussée de Waterloo 552 What’s good? Traditional Chinese dishes like kung pao chicken, dandan noodles and Beijing duck will lure any Asian cuisine fans. But the Sichuan spice — a hot pepper that numbs the mouth — will keep you there and make you return. The cold spinach starter has less vinegar than its original, but the sesame seeds and vermicelli elevate the flavor. Don’t miss the deep-fried chicken cooked in Sichuan peppers. The green beans are less spicy than the ones found in China, but the slight sweetness counteracts the spicy kick from the chicken. What’s not? It’s a popular spot, so make a reservation in advance. They also didn’t have the chuanr — Chinese barbeque sticks — advertised at the end of the menu.  Vibe: Tucked in one of Brussels’ wealthiest neighborhoods, the restaurant has upscale decor and plating. The cold spinach appetizer came in a gorgeous bowl that resembled a flower. When it’s warm, there’s outside seating, but bring layers for inside, as the door is often left open.  Who’s picking up the check? Main dishes will set you back €18 to €20, while smaller plates to start are around €10. It’s a good spot for a date or to impress visitors. A bonus is a Tsingtao — a mainstay Chinese lager — goes for just €5.  Spotted: It’s a well-known eatery among Brussels’ prominent China watchers, including, we hear, POLITICO’s own Regional Director Jamil Anderlini.  Insider tip: Forget your own main — order dishes for the table and share so you can try all the delicious offerings on the menu. Fun fact: Your author spent five years living in Beijing and can attest that the dishes match those found on the Chinese mainland, albeit with a slightly different flavor profile. The restaurant also has a Bib Gourmand rating from the Michelin Guide.  How to get there: Step off the tram or bus at Abbaye de la Cambre and walk ten minutes down Rue d’le Abbaye. Review published on  June, 19 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Hui Mian
Chaussée de Boondael 272, 1050 Ixelles What’s good? If you’re wandering around the ULB university campus, you’d be forgiven for missing Hui Mian, an unassuming spot that’s one of a smattering of Asian eateries in the area. If the modest decor doesn’t catch your attention, the sight of the chef in the window stretching and spinning long strands of fresh noodles before dumping them into a boiling vat of water just might. The bowls of fresh hand-pulled noodles come in a broth or with a variety of saucy toppings. We tried the house favorite, spicy mian, chewy noodles with beef mince, a spicy sauce and coriander. The cold garlic noodles topped with thin slices of beef were equally flavorful and lived up to their name (a pack of gum for after the meal is advised!). And while the menu may look meat-heavy upon first glance, both of these dishes — as well as some others — can be made with a veggie substitute. The highlight of the restaurant, though, is the traditional huimian noodles that the restaurant is named after, fresh noodles in a rich and comforting broth with slices of beef or lamb, vermicelli and tofu skin. What’s not? The restaurant doesn’t have any outdoor seating and on a hot summer’s day, sitting next to the steamy vat of boiling noodles becomes (unsurprisingly) very warm. Vibe: The decor is simple with odes to huimian noodles on the wall — think casual lunch joint for students or a fast, go-to spot for locals picking up some food after a long day at work. Who’s picking up the check? A bowl costs around €14.50, a decently priced dinner but perhaps a slightly pricey lunch. The rich, authentic flavors and the noodle-pulling show do justify the cost, though. Insider tip: If you haven’t worked it out yet, the mysterious “mian” that pops up across the menu simply means “noodles” in Mandarin. Fun fact: Hui Mian is named after the traditional noodle soup from Henan province in China where the owner/noodle-maker in the window hails from. It’s also the home of the Shaolin temple where the eponymous kung fu martial art style originates — we’re more interested in noodle eating, though. How to get there: Take bus 71 to Buyl from Flagey or tram 7 or 25 to Roffiaen from Montgomery. Review published on  June, 12 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Tero
Rue St.Bernard 1, 1060 Saint-Gilles What’s good? The seasonal menu is heavy on veg, and that’s nice when you’re dining with a vegetarian, like I was. The spelt was standout: perfectly cooked, taut chewiness married to creamy brocoletti. The waitress, who was very attentive without being overbearing, said it is usually served with cime di rapa but that they’d gone out of season. It still works. What’s not? I’m all for no-frills dining, but given the price point (more on this below) you expect a bit more. Most of the dishes were, while not quite bland, lacking a certain oomph. The burrata was run of the mill, and not saved by the pickled red onion garnish. The carrot tart was nicely roasted but the cheese base didn’t cut through. Vibe: My dining companion described it as “rustic modernism” and that’s apt. Spacious, ceiling in béton brut, and adorned with potted plants rather than flowers. The chairs are recycled office design pieces in a fun fabric. It works, but it’s a touch cold. Who’s picking up the check? It’s not cheap. The waitress recommended getting at least five dishes for two people, and the broccoli was €16. We ended up paying close to €65 a head, which included two glasses of wine each but no desserts. Spotted: Almost no one. We went on a Wednesday and stayed for a few hours, and the restaurant hardly filled up. Tero used to be a bustling spot — maybe it’s going out of fashion. Or it was simply a quiet day. Insider tip: The Tero brand, which has venues around Belgium and in Luxembourg, organizes team building activities. One for your consultants and other corporate types. How to get there: The location is super convenient. It’s on a quiet corner just off of Louise, easily reachable on the metro 2 and 6, and trams 92 and 97. Review published on  June, 5 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO CHECK MORE REVIEWS
Food review
Restaurant review: Atrio
Rue Stevin 132, 1000 What’s good? You would be forgiven for thinking Finnish and Italian cuisine don’t go together, but Atrio is here to prove you wrong. The reindeer carbonara was to die for — smoky, salty and luxuriously creamy, with spaghetti cooked perfectly al dente. So was the gin and tonic, which in true Finnish fashion came with a sprig of rosemary and tart lingonberries. And we devoured the wild blueberry pie, which was touted as grandma’s secret, Finnish recipe. If that’s true, granny deserves a Michelin star. What’s not? The restaurant sits in the shadow of the towering Berlaymont building, so if you’re a weary Eurocrat hoping to put work out of your mind after a long day of meetings and briefings, you might want to dine at a less centrally located spot. Vibe: The décor is somewhat minimalist (Nordic, duh), but cool and refined, with soft jazz mingling with the sounds of happy Finnish chatter. A deer print on the wall eyed us balefully as we devoured his buddy. There’s a terrace to enjoy on sunnier days. Who’s picking up the check? At around €24 for a pasta main, the prices were assuredly more northern European than southern. Spotted: Presidents, prime ministers and other European political luminaries have all feasted at Atrio, the manager told us (though he couldn’t possibly name any, of course). We spotted the EU’s top diplomat Kaja Kallas with a couple of bodyguards at another table, and there’s a hot-smoked salmon sandwich on the menu named after former Finnish PM Jyrki Katainen. Fun fact: Atrio was started by three friends: an Italian chef and two Finns. That’s where the name comes from. Insider tip: If you hang around and chat with the very pleasant staff, you might be lucky enough to score a digestif on the house — Jaloviina, a Finnish cut brandy — and a Finnish canned cocktail called a Lonkero, first concocted for the 1952 Olympics in Helsinki and which my dinner companion/emotional-support Finn assured me is very popular back home. How to get there: Atrio is smack in the heart of the European Quarter, a short stroll from Schuman metro station. Just follow the scent of reindeer meat. Review published on  May, 28 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
Food review
Restaurant review: Verigoud
Rue Américaine 85, 1050 Ixelles What’s good? If authentic Mexican fare reminiscent of the streets of Mexico City’s Roma Norte is what you’re after, Verigoud won’t be for you. With Japanese-inspired dishes like grilled octopus with a spicy peanut chili crisp, there’s a heavy Asian and European influence. Regardless, it works — crispy tempura prawns arrive on soft corn tortillas; hot, crunchy and flavorful. The ceviche is bright and acidic, with a herby oil adding to rather than distracting from the freshness. And quick-arriving creative cocktails like the spicy margarita or the Mezcal sour pack a punch. What’s not? With a focus on small plates and a tiny open-galley kitchen, the food isn’t always fast. And, on a sunny day when there are a dozen tables outside as well, service can grind to a halt. Vibe: Verigoud’s intimate, stylish interior — including a communal table for late arrivals and larger parties — as well as tables spilling out into the street under the cover of parasols, help it hold its own against upmarket neighbors like seafood bistro Malmö across the road. It’s also dog-friendly — provided your dog is friendly enough to deal with the constant procession of tiny pedigree pooches guaranteed to be walking by. Who’s picking up the check? Small plates range from around €10 for guacamole and tortilla chips, to up to €20 for a pair of tacos and some of the heartier main dishes. Sharing is obligatory, as it should be, and with drinks, expect to spend up to €50 per person.  Spotted: Sitting out the front of the restaurant in Châtelain, half a dozen Commission staffers, spokespeople and even one top POLITICO trade reporter wandered past. Insider tip: Book a day or so in advance. Being stuck on the end of the communal table next to a large group wouldn’t be much fun, and this place fills up quickly through the weekend. Fun fact: The area might now be home to a spattering of Brussels’ fanciest restaurants, boutique shops and even a matcha green tea emporium; but until the EU circus arrived in full force, it was known for car dealerships and furniture warehouses. How to get there: Take the 60 bus from the European quarter straight to Place du Châtelain. Review published on  May, 22 2025. Illustration by Natália Delgado/POLITICO
Food review
Restaurant review: Berlaymont canteen
Rue de la Loi 200, 1049 What’s good? If you’re one of the thousands of hungry eurocrats buzzing around the Berlaymont building, the headquarters of the European Commission, you know the real center of power isn’t Ursula von der Leyen’s 13th floor office, it’s the canteen. With its ever-changing menu, gleaming glass cabinets full of desserts and well-stocked salad bar, it’s where all the most important and gossipiest conversations happen. What’s not? The vegetarian menu was neither sustainable nor competitive. The dish of the day that POLITICO visited consisted of a grayish eggplant parmigiana, a heaping of spaghetti with a careless splattering of tomato sauce and a mysterious, gristly, soy-based mush. My Finnish companion assured me that the offering is normally far more appetizing. Vibe: Lining up to grab a tray (and again after my meal to put the tray on a conveyor belt), this POLITICO reporter felt vaguely like livestock being ushered through a feedlot. The ambiance did not improve when an ear-splitting alarm suddenly screamed through the room; potentially a regular occurrence, as most forks barely paused on their way to mouths. Who’s picking up the check? For around €9, I scored a sizeable vegetarian main and a dessert, so the prices are well within the budget of the average, barely taxed Commission worker, and even within the budget of the outrageously taxed POLITICO reporter. The grill was offering chicken with veggies and fries for a few euros extra. Spotted: Preparedness Commissioner Hadja Lahbib was glimpsed striding through the Berlaymont’s lobby, as was Katharina von Schnurbein, the Commission’s coordinator on combating antisemitism. The canteen was a sea of Commission staffers from various Cabinets and units; a Brussels bubble nerd’s dream. Fun fact: Among the EU institutions, the Commission’s canteen is generally regarded as top tier, along with the Council’s (which POLITICO has also reviewed, naturally). We hear there’s fierce competition between the two. Insider tip: You’ll need an institution or visitor badge to get into the Berlaymont building. Sorry, no plebs allowed. How to get there: The Schuman metro stop deposits you literally steps from the Berlaymont. Walk through the revolving doors and it’s basically a straight shot to the canteen. Review published on  May, 15 2025. Illustration by Dato Parulava/POLITICO
Food review